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DO NOT waste bait by adding it into timbers which do not contain live termites. The colony is murdered only if workers take enough of the bait back to the nest. And they will only take it whenever they can harvest it, undisturbed, from inside the damaged timber you've found. .
See the uneven surface of the window frame. Termites had eaten out it, in certain regions leaving only the paint.
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Create an opening into the termites using a pointed knife or fine screwdriver. The hole should be no bigger than about 5mm diameter to begin with. (It should be enlarged only when it's time to add the cache of bait). You can pry into the surface of the timber in which it feels spongy, thin or hollow.
It's only as a last resort you should make an effort to open a tunnel on a timber or foundation surface. .
Once you have broken into into where it is hollow, wait for a minute or so. If termites are not there, the soldiers usually come to guard the opening while employees repair it. You will see their antennae and their heads blocking the hole. If no live pollutants appear, leave the hole open and return later or check next day.
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This reveals how termites will come out of the infested timber into a foil covered mass of bait taped into the surface. Alternatively, if the surface is flat, the feeder might be repaired over the hole and also the termites will enter it to crop the lure.
If the wood has a level surface, then make the hole away from corners so you can line it up with the hole in the base of the feeder. In case the access hole to the termites is on a round post or another situation where you cannot repair the feeder to it, then you can make a pouch of aluminium foil and duct tape to hold the bait in place.
If you're using the foil method, carefully pull the edge of the sticky tape to inspect and to replenish the bait. If you are using the feeder system, it is not as disturbing if you can add more bait to the original feeder.
The termites you may see as dark brown nests high up in a tree are rarely pests of significance. Nevertheless, the main subterranean termites which do that 99% of the $damage we mentioned before, will often nest inside the central pipe or even hollowed out center of a mature tree. Mastos, the giant northern termite, dont always await the decay of this pipe.
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(See the special box on Mastos).
If at colonising flight time a termite couple find their way into a hollow tree through maybe a dead/broken-off branch or even in via a scar from fire in the base, they could see this site not possibly have better conditions. Requires plenty to eat, moisture and protection. A 50 metre traveling to your residence would not be out of the question. .
In case you have a large eucalypt, peppercorn or a mature fruit tree nearby, you should check it. Utilize an 15-20mm auger little long enough to drill into the centre of the trunk at approximately shoulder height. Drill at a slight downward angle and when you feel less resistance it'll be because you have reached the pipe.
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If not, you can slip in a long thin grass leaf into the drill hole, leave it for a minute and draw it gradually. Termites might be found holding on, attacking it. If still no live termites are found, return in half an hour or next morning; if there's termite life inside, they'll be repairing or have repaired the opening using their sand mixture. .
In this situation you dont need to see live termites; its only more satisfying to know you've murdered a colony when you choose the next steps
Re-open the drill hole when it has been repairedUsing a funnel, plastic tube and watering can/bucket, pour at least 20-30 litres of a chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin solution down into the shrub. These insecticidal concentrations can be purchased by a local hardware shop. They could be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the label.